Friend! This year the olives will be late, it has been cool.
Cool? I’ve never sweltered like this.
No. This is what cool means. We pick by hand, putting in ventilated boxes in the shade to press that very day. We know what Abbas Ibn Fadhl thought he knew conquering Qasr Ianna but did not know losing Castrugiuvanni. You wait. Don’t force, don’t cook, don’t ripen in brine, don’t throw stems in the press.
You pick when you feel the fruit is tender?
No. Ripeness we know with our eyes, a particular emerald, not as you say touch or taste or smell and not even, but almost, by the sound the fruit makes on the right morning.
And I taste your oil on this bread?
No. This you eat with beans. The flavor blooms in warmth, in just-simmered fava. Don’t put salt.
So …?
No. Don’t say. I’ll tell you. The invaders didn’t call these cultivars nocellara etnea e Moresca and Biancolilla as we do now but it is what kept them here, wave upon wave, until we did not know the difference between them and us.